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 Media Reviews
Crittenden Estate
Los Hermanos
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CRITTENDEN ESTATE 2007 SAUVIGNON BLANC
There are signs that sauvignon blanc is wearing out its welcome, but don’t expect sales to fall apart just now. It was made to go with all that lovely seafood. Local styles that impress include…….Garry Crittenden 2007. CRITTENDEN ESTATE 2007 PINOT GRIGIO
A very Italian wine from Australia’s Mornington Peninsula. Delicious with seafood or a hearty frittata. Lots of typical characteristics of newly-mown hay and honeysuckle. Long, lingering acid finishes and clean on the palate.
Carefully tuned barrel work and lees contact can readily elevate PG to the next level, and wines like this exemplify how it’s done. There’s a lot of complexity going on here, and a lovely phenolic texture, without sacrificing a single nuance of its fine pear fruit and lifted aromatics. 93 points.
This is a pear-musky smelling wine, but it’s the palate which shines here. Crisp and chewy in the mouth, with zest and zip, and savoury cucumber-rind tasting fruit; actually tastes like grigio. There’s some gruyere-like lees and a dry, mouth-watering finish. 88/100
The new chardonnay – pinot grigio is everywhere, but many seem to lack the characteristics of European versions. Crittendens is closer to the Italian style than many, with gentle aromatics dominated by honeysuckle and real depth of flavour. The ripe fruit is set off with crisp acidity and finishes beautifully. To purchase or read more about this wine click here. CRITTENDEN ESTATE 2005 CHARDONNAY
This Mornington Peninsula white is drinking superbly. Winemaker Garry Crittenden lavished his 2005 chardonnay grapes with the best possible treatment in the winery. Fine, delicate, and a touch of austere, this has a seamless balance of acid, oak and fruit and a long finish.
Crittenden Estate Chardonnay 2005: Complex flavour and structure; integrated French oak accompanies nectarine and white peach fruit, with some creamy/nutty malolactic ferment notes; good length. Four and a half stars.
Garry Crittenden rates this as the best chardonnay he has made since the great 1999 he produced. “This is from the same vineyard, made in the same fashion and matured in similar oak. Yet this is the first time I’ve been able to replicate the ’99,” he says.
Garry Crittenden has hit his straps with a superb new chardonnay, complex enough but not cluttered or overworked. Lovers of cool-climate chardonnay will find this a gorgeous expression of the grape with some skilful and sensitive winemaking artifice. 5 Star - Unbeatable. To purchase or read more about this wine click here. CRITTENDEN ESTATE 2006 PINOT NOIR
The 2006 Crittenden Pinot Noir sang with piercing fruit and expressed fine elegant floral notes. The palate was alive, fresh and alluring. In fact the nose, palate and finish were all particularly atractive. It has earthy beetroot notes and savoury rhubarb, sweet fruit and wonderful acidity, the wine danced along my tongue and made me blink in delight. It is delicate in colour yet has powerful and concentrated ripe strawberry and spice. The tannins are fine and powdery, I think this has a couple of good years ahead of it, but it is looking terrific now.
Sheesh there's a lot going on in this wine. It tastes of woodsap and sour cherries, undergrowth and fresh beetroot, and if you're worried about that combination - don't be. It's one of those wines that rages with exotic, intriguing perfume and keeps showing you different flavours every time you bring it to your lips. There are some super 2006 pinots from Mornington around - and this is one of them. Drink 2009-2015. 93 points.
Garry Crittenden is probably best-known for introducing Australian-made Italian varietals into the marketplace, but he’s also a dab hand with traditional varieties, and this is a very good pinot for the price. Its smells like pinot, tastes like pinot, has a nice softness and doesn’t cost a fortune. To purchase or read more about this wine click here. CRITTENDEN ESTATE 2005 CABERNET
Garry Crittenden persists with cabernet in Mornington. This is ripe and nicely balanced - just 13.5 per cent alcohol. Aromas of dark fruit, earth and nicely integrated oak. The tannins are ample and the ripe berry flavours are almost succulent. 90 points, Fours stars.
Mornington Peninsula pioneer winemaker Garry Crittenden - formerly of Dromana Estate, but now heading up Crittenden wines - fears climate change could affect the quality of the regions signature varietal wine, pinot noir. If the increased warmth is permanent, the red pinot will simply not perform at its best; it's a classic cool climate grape. The upside of this possible gloom and doom is that the Peninsula could become an ideal environment for cabernet sauvignon. As a pointer to future delights, Garry has released his 2005 cut cane cabernet, which includes a significant amount of wine made from fruit dried on the vine. It's a delicious red with short to medium term cellaring potential.
DR BOOZE
You won't hear me say too many nice things about Mornington cabernet but I do regularly make an exception for the cabernet of Dromana Estate - and now of Crittenden Estate. This wine is made off 25 year old wines growing in a warm, sheltered site, and if you shelve your prejudices it cannot be classified as anything other than a damn good wine. It is full of expansive, Italianate tannin, the flavours of dried leaves and olives tight against more robust blackcurrent and tar. It needs time in the bottle - at least five years I reckon - but this has interest and quality aplenty. Drink 2013-2019. 92 points. To purchase or read more about this wine click here. CRITTENDEN ESTATE PINOCCHIO 2006 ARNEIS
Garry Crittenden in Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula was the first person to plant Arneis in Australia, and he’s been having quite a success with it for about 10 years now. This example is a good’un, with flavours and smells that remind you of pinot gris; perfumed pear, flowers, and a minerality that keeps it upright.
The first Arneis made in Australia was by Garry Crittenden a decade or so ago. It exhibited such promise that planting has continued apace and it probably hasn't been bettered yet. Originally from Piedmont, where it once walked the tightrope of abscurity and extintion, good examples offer almond, honey, stone fruit, and even pear notes. Some oak seems to add to the complexity and enticing aromas are a strength. It does well in the King Valley and Mornington Peninsula.
Mornington Peninsula winemaker Garry Crittenden was at the forefront of promoting and the first to plant the dry white grape arneis, originally from Piedmont. It’s aromatic, flinty and disturbingly drinkable with fresh white pear flavours and refreshing minerality on the finish. Terrific with spicy dishes. To purchase or read more about this wine click here. CRITTENDEN ESTATE PINOCCHIO 2007 ROSATO
BEST ROSE
TOP NEW RELEASE Four Stars 90
Made entirely from Sangiovese grapes grown in the Mornington Peninsula, this Rosato is delicious as a pre-dinner drink or during a meal. Has a slightly fuller flavour than others currently on the market and may suit those who have previously turned their nose up at rosés because of their delicate flavours. A more robust style with a dominant nose and palate that should suit the ubiquitous seafood, chicken and light meals enjoyed in the Australian summer. To purchase or read more about this wine click here. CRITTENDEN ESTATE PINOCCHIO 2005 DOLCETTO
THIRSTY WORK It has taken more than a century, but we’re finally seeing Italian grapes take hold, not only in our vineyards, but in the minds of drinkers. There’s much work to do, but sangiovese and barbera look promising. Check out the Garry Crittenden Pinocchio Dolcetto 2005. A delightful, lighter red.
"Quality, serious light wine - a great red for Sauvignon Blanc drinkers"
Aussie Wine Italian Style To purchase or read more about this wine click here. CRITTENDEN ESTATE PINOCCHIO 2007 MOSCATO
You may have noticed a few more bottles of Moscato staring at you in the bottle shop lately. It's a bit of a new wave in Australia - some say it's set to take off like Rose did five years ago. There are just over a dozen versions of Moscato being made in Australia at the moment (including this Garry Crittenden Pinocchio Moscato 2007). Our local style is based on the semi-fizzy, semi-sweet white wines of Italy's Moscato d'Asti. It's the sort of white wine that I've always thought is ideal for breakfast, as it's grapey, fruity, frizzante and low in alcohol (often around 8%). Chill it well and try it with brunch pastries.
Lots of lychees and ginger in this bubbly wine. Deliciously frizzante with a refreshing backbone of acidity that cuts through the sweetness of the unfermented grape sugar. With low alcohol it is the perfect foil for desserts, a number of cheeses (particularly dolce latte and gorgonzola piccante) as well as pastries and briche.
The Mornington Peninsula in Victoria is many things, but there are few that would say it is the home to a winery that makes wines in the style of Moscato D'Asti. Well what do you know? Here is that very wine. In addition to being totally mesmerising to our cat who patiently watches the delicate bubbles rise through the delicate wine, this Crittenden Moscato is totally delicious. It is a perfect replica of the wines from "the old country", they call them spumante, not sparkling and they call them dolce not sweet, but a rose by another name, as they say. The wine is floral and grapey with a twist of citrus, and I'm sure I heard it whispering something about wanting to be matched with panna cotta! (what a clever little wine). Everything about this wine is pretty, from the label to the delicate bead. There is no one season for Moscato, as there always seems to be a perfect time to drink wines of this style with low alcohol and low fizz so you can slam it down fast. A full bottle will cost you about $20. PS I was joking about the slamming it down fast part. To purchase or read more about this wine click here. CRITTENDEN ESTATE PINOCCHIO 2005 BARBERANo current review for this wine. To purchase or read more about this wine click here. CRITTENDEN ESTATE PINOCCHIO 2006 SANGIOVESE
It is not that I am cynical; it is just that I have been disappointed too many times to approach a new wine with naïve excitement. The excitement is still there but it is rolled up mainly with anxiety and predisposed readiness for a letdown. However, when a wine is good, and in this case terrific, the happiness seems more complete, and a sense of relief lowers my blood pressure. Why is it so good? Well for starters the wine is in balance, there are not pointy bits of oak or jammy fruit that take over. This Pinocchio Sangiovese rolls out the flavours one by one, highlighting its complexity all the more. The wines finish is of pure morello cherry bite and grip. The wine maker said it was there and it is, it is mouth wateringly good. The tannins seem ripe and almost leathery, the finish goes on and on and the flavours resound on your palate. The nose is a blend of red and black fruits, earth and meat; this is an impressive Sangiovese indeed.
Deep ruby colour with a brick red rim. An earthy, dry, tobacco leaf, inky nose with slowly emerging fruit in a weighty wine style. Good balance on the palate with grippy, well integrated tannins, spice and dried fruit flavours. A savoury, meaty finish. "This wine is developing well" one taster said.
This has character and the correct varietal signature: red berries, earth and spices, with sour-cherry emerging, plus a lick of vanilla. The grapes were ripe; it has a charming eau-de-vie nuance. Very elegant, balanced, drink me now wine. 89/100. Four stars.
To purchase or read more about this wine click here. CRITTENDEN ESTATE GEPPETTO NV BRUT
The Great Cellar Guide
It’s that time of the year when bubbles are popped with abandon, as are some reputations – of horses, I mean! The variety of bubbles available is amazing, as is the quality. There are sweet bubbles, dry bubbles, low-alcohol bubbles, bubbles that are stunning and bubbles that are boring, bubbles that can’t compete with food and those that complement a good nosh, those that make you want to keep drinking and those that best suit the temperance association’s annual dinner. In a crowded marketplace Garry Crittenden’s Geppetto is very drinkable. To purchase or read more about this wine click here. CRITTENDEN ESTATE GEPPETTO 2006 PINOT NOIR
Plenty of Pinot here for the paltry sum of twenty bucks! Garry Crittenden's eye for a decent selection of fruit delivers plenty of rich fruit aromas and complexity crafted in the workshop. Juicy flavours, tasty oak and early-drinking appeal. 89 points. To purchase or read more about this wine click here. CRITTENDEN ESTATE GEPPETTO 2005 SHIRAZNo current review for this wine. To purchase or read more about this wine click here. CRITTENDEN ESTATE GEPPETTO 2006 CABERNET MERLOT
Maybe not so responsible, this is dangerously easy to drink and given the name (you know, that famous Italian woodworker) surprisingly little wood is evident. A real Pinocchio wine, the more you have the bigger the lies. 8.4/10
The cabernet component gives the wine firmness and authority and the merlot brings a soft approachability. The nose is like a basket of mixed red berries and the palate is soft and gentle without harsh or astringent tannins. The acid is noticeable, which makes this wine a good accompaniment to grills and braises or firm cheeses. To purchase or read more about this wine click here. CRITTENDEN ESTATE GEPPETTO 2006 CHARDONNAY
Some budget priced beauties This wine only ever aspires to offer good, honest value for money and as such is not tricked up with the use of oak of heavy-handed malolactic. The vibrant Alpine fruit is allowed to shine through, giving hints of fresh white peach and melon on the nose and palate. Glynis Macri, Italianicious - Essence of Italy - Volume 4 Issue 2 June - August 2008 To purchase or read more about this wine click here. CRITTENDEN ESTATE GEPPETTO 2007 SAUVIGNON BLANC SEMILLONNo current review for this wine. To purchase or read more about this wine click here. LOS HERMANOS 2008 ALBARINO
Joining the new Spanish wave peaking in Australia, Crittenden Estate have released an Albarino under the Los Hermanos label. Taking the name from the Spanish word for siblings, Zoe and Rollo Crittenden are the team behing this wine and I'm tipping there will be a few happy drinkers out there getting behind it too. This wine is taut and pure with super fine fruit expression and 'gritty' acidity, as the winemaker puts it. Albarino's are famous for their acidity and this wine certainly has it. Drinking this wine with a plate of simple patatas bravas, I noted green pear and white flowers, lemon citris, even some greenish pineapple flavours, coupled with fine minerality and spice. Totallly refreshing and delightful this wine really impressed.
Winemaker Rollo Crittenden and his sister Zoe, 'Los Hermanos', or the siblings, love the aromatic Spanish grape variety albarino, which is fast becoming a favourite with Australian drinkers. Fresh and vibrant with crunchy apple and pear flavours, this is the perfect outdoor wine. Pair it with paella, $29.
I don't drink enough of the local wines made from Spanish or Portuguese varieties. It's not that I don't think they're up to scratch, but I usually have my hands full keeping up with the imported stuff. With the ever dropping dollar, imports are going to get more expensive and wines like this may well fill the hole when most imported Albarinos are pushing $35 to $40 bucks a bottle. This is the first wine from this label, which means the siblings in spanish. The packaging is outstanding, the wine shows real promise too. The fruit is from the King Valley. Peach, jasmine, a little lime and even some rocky minerals. Tight with a backbone of driving acid underneath some good fruit. Apple and just ripe white peach, lemony acid with a lime sherbert thing on finish, which is quite long. A bit of talc at times too. This is a very good example of Aussie albarino. 89 points.
Colour televisions were expensive when they first came out and so are Albarinos. This one comes from the King Valley and has the typical pert, green-apple acidity and relatively low alcohol that makes the Spanish variety such a good food wine - especially seafood.
Plenty to enjoy here, with its attractive floral lift and hints of pear and apple. As the variety promises, it's quite textural without being heavy, round before finishing fresh and clean with fine acidity. A delightful Aussie Albarino. To purchase or read more about this wine click here. GEPPETTO 2006 VERGE®
This Mornington mob also do the full range of trendy stuff like cogna and dukkah and they obviously couldn’t help themselves with their verjus, sexing up an already pretty sexy name, but now everything has to have that punchy, funky, vibe…..baby 8.8/10 GEPPETTO 2006 VERJUS
If you enjoy a wine or two, the name Garry Crittenden might be familiar. After all, he’s been a vigneron on the Mornington Peninsula for 25 years with a particular interest in Italian varietals. Now, under his Geppetto range of wines, Crittenden has released a verjus, a very handy condiment. Verjus (French for verjuice but don’t pronounce the “s”) is generally made from unripened grapes and the juice is unfermented so there’s no alcohol. However, the Geppetto verjus is made from semi-ripe pinot noir grapes, which means it’s sweeter but still with the requisite aftertaste. Use it in drinks either as cordial or blended to make cocktails. Verjus is a marvellous alternative to lemon or vinegar because it’s not harsh or sour. Use it to deglaze pans after cooking steak or poultry, make sauces, marinades or as a base for salad dressings. Refrigerate after opening and use within six weeks. GEPPETTO COGNANo current review for this product. GEPPETTO DUKKAHNo current review for this product. GEPPETTO VINOCOTTONo current review for this product. GEPPETTO EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OILNo current review for this product. AUSSIE WINE ITALIAN STYLE
The curiosity of Australian wine drinkers for trying lesser known varieties has led to a wonderful array of Italian varieties being produced in this country. Most are terrific food wines that go beautifully with our lifestyle and the type of food we like to eat, whether it be an antipasto platter, a casual lunch or barbecue, pasta or risotto. One of the first to be captivated by Italian varieties was Mornington Peninsula winemaker Garry Crittenden who created the “I” range with its distinctive label in the colours of the Italian flag. “I became absolutely fascinated by the difference, the fundamental difference, not just in the flavour, but in the palate structure. And I began to see the endless possibilities they offered in partnership with food, “ he says. Although “I” continues under new owners, Crittenden is no longer involved, having gone on to establish a new range, Pinocchio, which includes a Sangiovese and Barbera made from King Valley fruit, Arneis from his own vineyard at Dromana, and a rosé-style wine. GOURMENT TRAVELLER WINE
Garry Crittenden was one of the region’s few professional viticultural pioneers when he established Dromana Estate in 1982. Then, after selling the label a few years ago, he set himself up in business again (like-wise eponymously), and is now making even better wine than before. The wheel turned full circle earlier this year when Crittenden’s winemaker son Rollo left Dromana to rejoin the family firm. Mirroring Quealy’s renewed vigour, the restless Crittenden curiosity is, if anything, even more acute in this second enterprise: father and son are trialling new varieties such as melon (the grape used to produce the bone-dry, minerally white wines of Muscadet) with great success, and after years of ambivalence, Crittenden senior has finally succumbed to the charms of the regional white speciality, pinot grigio. GOURMENT TRAVELLER WINE
Garry Crittenden was one of the region’s few professional viticultural pioneers when he established Dromana Estate in 1982. Then, after selling the label a few years ago, he set himself up in business again (like-wise eponymously), and is now making even better wine than before. The wheel turned full circle earlier this year when Crittenden’s winemaker son Rollo left Dromana to rejoin the family firm. Mirroring Quealy’s renewed vigour, the restless Crittenden curiosity is, if anything, even more acute in this second enterprise: father and son are trialling new varieties such as melon (the grape used to produce the bone-dry, minerally white wines of Muscadet) with great success, and after years of ambivalence, Crittenden senior has finally succumbed to the charms of the regional white speciality, pinot grigio. GENERATION NEXT
What is it that sets the new crop of Australian Winemakers apart from their predecessors? A global perspective, says acclaimed sommelier and author of The Juice and Thirsty Work, Matt Skinner. "In every respect, the world is a much smaller place today than it once was, and the key differences are how easy it is for today's group to travel, work and experience the rest of the world. Alongside passion, knowledge and enthusiasm, a greater understanding of international wine styles is a huge plus if you're planning on making wine for a living."...."Check you local wine list for the work of Rollo Crittenden (Crittenden Estate). |
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