2019 Cri de Coeur Savagnin Sous Voile

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Jane Faulkner | 97 points
Incredibly fresh, to the point more citrus flavours come to the fore rather than oxidative complexity alone. A hint of florals, camomile with some preserved ginger spice on the palate. Nutty, mouth-watering aldehydes and burnt butter, with some wood tannins adding volume. The all-important distinct acidity of savagnin keeps this lively from the first sip to the last. Another excellent addition to the lineage of this style spearheaded by Crittenden.

Jenni Port | Wine Pilot | 95 points
Cri de Coeur – “cry from the heart” – is a passionate call to arms on behalf of Mornington Peninsula winemaker, Rollo Crittenden. It asks consumers to consider a wine outside the norm, at least in Australia, where the role of yeast – specifically, a veil of yeast which covers the surface of wines often associated with Sherry or the Jura – plays a vital role in the shape and flavour of the Savagnin grape as it ages in barrel. The result is quite magical, warm, textural and beautifully honey-defined and nutty. Immediately inviting in aromas of baked quince, fig, honey and toasted almonds. Flavours are measured and dry with acidity playing a role in keeping a five-year-old wine looking so fresh and vital as it explores a rich field of heady tastes, including the oxidative. Baked quince, grilled nuts, buttered toast, ginger and spices mix freely, easily. Few Australian makers dare to dream and then consummately achieve this style of vinous excitement.

Erin Larkin | The Wine Advocate | 95 points
I am so glad I saved this and the MacVin #5 for the end of my Victoria tasting this week, as both wines demand attention and space, such is that impressive complexity and length. Here, the 2019 Cri de Coeur Sous Voile Savagnin leads with preserved lemon and Comté cheese, white pepper and fennel, fresh sourdough crust and crushed seashells. On the palate, the wine is tight and oxidative (state the obvious) and fills the mouth and memory with savory, nutty flavors. The intensity of the fruit doesn't feel as potent as the winemaking here as it has in previous vintages, but the length of flavor through the finish tends to eradicate any doubt as to the quality and excitement of this wine. It matured under flor in barrel for four years. The label states that it was "fermented, matured and bottled without any intervention." 15% alcohol, sealed under Diam.

Mike Bennie | Halliday Wine Companion 
This is perhaps the richest, densest release of this wine, but contains all the freshness of cooling, saline acidity, the tell-tale fino sherry-like lift, among stewed cinnamon apples, ginger and crème brûlée. Power and presence, and something quite extraordinary. For long cellaring too.